My Little Pilgrimage
by Harald von Ahsen
On the 9th of September I left Bangalore in South India to go on my little pilgrimage. First stop was Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh, North India, where I visited my dear old friend “Ruth”, translator of my teacher, Geshe Sonam Rinchen.
After a busy time in Germany I enjoyed the peace and quiet in the Himalayan foothills. I could view the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama from my hotel, and I assumed feeling his presence. Within his monastery I found a tree overlooking the teaching venue and his home. I placed a little portion of Gaby’s ashes around the tree so she can listen to his teachings, being close to her root Guru.
On the 14th of September I said farewell to Dharamsala and flew via Delhi to Varanasi, India’s holy city on the banks of the river Ganges. I arrived at my hotel on the 14th of September 2015, around 10 pm in Varanasi, and started the boat trip on the Ganges around 4 am the next morning. Varanasi was very hot and humid, but I still was able to light 108 candles surrounded by flower garlands and send them off on their journey floating down the mighty mother Ganges.
The air was filled with smoke from the cremations and a slight mist dusted the surface of the water. The candles floated in between the mist, the lights appearing and disappearing constantly as if to say, “I am here, I am not here, I am here….” The sound of prayers mixed with water splashing over bodies, purification of form into formless and formless into form.
I remembered when Gaby and myself floated one candle each 31 years ago. Nothing has changed, as even this beautiful moment passes too, reminding myself of the only constant in life. I emptied the little container with Gaby’s ashes into the river.
The boat organizer suggested a Brahmin priest to guarantee the direct ascent to heaven for 11,000 rupies. I declined his offer and he worked his way down to 200 rupies for a less qualified priest! By then my potential for bargaining and my patience had run out and I visualized all the deities rejoicing in Gaby’s life with all informal priests being present.
At dawn the city awoke to life and the sound of bells and prayers slowly giving way to the sounds of a hectic, motorized, modern Indian city. It was time to start the journey to Bodhgaya and my driver Sunil arrived punctually.
The drive to Bodhgaya was uneventful and I was not taking too much notice of the typical Indian driving practices which to western tradition appear insane. I had explained to Sunil the reason for my little pilgrimage and he was suggesting some nice, cultured Indian ladies for future marriage. He explained various options and mentioned that he was quite connected. I declined his proposals and finally we could focus on my little pilgrimage.
I had booked a fancy hotel, which had just been newly built. I just managed to check in and quickly fell asleep soon after. Unfortunately some water came out of the walls and I had to swap rooms. The next day I visited the Bodhi tree and stupa and left some of Gaby’s ashes nearby.
Trying to exchange some money at the Indian state bank, (taking about 2 hours,) I was joined by Tashi, a good friend and allocated Tour Guide for Bodhgaya of my driver Sunil, (how he explained his appearance.) He suggested that the Mahakala cave and the shunyata stupa would be very important to visit. It was really nice to retrace Buddha’s path from meditating for 6 years & 29 days in the cave to developing the insights of the middle path, (not too loose & not too tight,) until finally he reached enlightenment.
After visiting, making offerings, supporting a school project and finally purchasing a little statue in Tashi’s shop, (he explained that Sunil would be looking forward to a little commission. but that I should not mention the purchase price in order to avoid any complications,) I felt really tired and went straight to sleep at my hotel. On the way back to Varanasi I discovered that Sunil did not know Tashi at all…
At Sarnath , the place of Buddha’s first turning the wheel of Dharma, (the first teaching of the middle path,) I again left a little portion of Gaby’s ashes.